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gareth_sumner

1960s open tread staircase renovation suggestions please

Gareth Sumner
hace 3 años

Hi,


We are planning to renovate our 1960s open tread staircase. We want to modernise and make it safe without completely losing the openness or character. (There is a roof light above that brings light down into the open plan room.


We have some ideas and like the idea of using birch plywood for spindles like shown in thisblog. However we are not sure how best to deal with the treads.


Are there any suggestions of how to reduce the gap on the treads cost effectively, without completely losing the openness?


We think we will have to paint the existing structure white as the existing wood colour won't work with the ply, but not sure if that will be in-practical at showing dirt?


Any ideas appreciated.


Thanks


Gareth





Comentarios (14)

  • clarekelly2002
    hace 3 años

    i wouldn't touch that beautiful stairs

  • Gareth Sumner
    Autor original
    hace 3 años

    We do love the look, but unfortunately they are not safe so they need to be adapted.

  • Daisy England
    hace 3 años

    Can you fill in the back of the treads with a matching timber?

  • keiblem
    hace 3 años

    How about glass on the risers?

  • PRO
    Run for the Hills
    hace 3 años

    Hi Gareth! We'd like to throw an idea in the mix- how about going darker? This is super practical for hiding dirt and marks/nicks on the treads. In terms of the the banisters, we love the vertical spindle idea. Have you thought about potentially using metal instead for a bit of variation in material? A lovely blackened steel would look fab, and would work if you decided to go a bit fresher on the stair treads and risers as well.

  • rinked
    hace 3 años

    I'd box in the lowest part, perhaps with a hatch for storage.

  • Sonia
    hace 3 años

    People have filled the gap behind the steps simply because they are a danger to small children. Teak was used a lot in the 1960s so if you filled the gaps with teak it will still look stylish but so much safer. However it’s not a cheap wood. I don’t blame you wanting to make those steps safe and the wood colour is lovely.

  • Wumi
    hace 3 años

    Could you add metal mesh/grill to the risers and spindle/ balustrades?

    These examples are a bit industrial looking but you've got more wood so maybe could get away with it?









  • keiblem
    hace 3 años

    Hello Gareth
    I notice you have two posts running in tandem about these stairs. You are asking about different configurations for seating and or a children’s den underneath the stairs in the other post.

    I am wondering how those requirements wouldn’t conflict with your wish to keep the stairs open.

  • Gareth Sumner
    Autor original
    hace 3 años

    Hi Keiblem,

    At the moment the lower flight is not open but semi-boxed in for storage with an open space below the actual half landing. The upper flight is then open tread - we'd want this to stay the same. However perhaps this isn't clear?


  • keiblem
    hace 3 años

    Truth be told not entirely clear but I will give it a stab.

    If it was me I would want to keep the staircase as it is. However, because you have children, I can fully see where you are coming from.

    Your other images show different formats utilising the space for seating. I am afraid I don’t think that works at all. I would be inclined to stick with using the space under the bottom level for storage but get it professionally fitted out with cupboards and doors that are pull out drawers which fit within the angled shape of the lower staircase. They don’t need to be teak. A painted finish would look good. This would mean the lower staircase risers would need to be boxed in. I believe you intend to switch the existing horizontal rails with ply. Could you reuse the horizontal rails to box in the risers?

    You want to keep it open so perhaps create that effect on the upper staircase by using glass for the risers. You could go one step further and use glass, that meets regulations for staircase and fire regulations, to encase the upper portion of the staircase. Sticky fingers springs to mind but that is as temporary as childhood.

    If you stick with ply then could you space the rails further apart, the same distance as standard rails? I just feel your images of using these closely spaced makes the staircase look top heavy and not in the least bit airy which is what I understand you are striving for.

  • Gareth Sumner
    Autor original
    hace 3 años

    Hi Keiblem, great ideas, thanks. Particularly the suggestion of resusing the teak.


    At the moment we don't like the colour of the teak, but I think that is partly due to the fact that the wood would need some general rennovation of the wood as its become scratched and discloured over time. (The photo I shared seems to make it look much nicer than it is ni reality!)


    I agree that the CGIs in the other post make it look closed in, however we felt that the photos in this blog felt much less like that (?). blog.making-spaces.net/2017/06/08/staircase-banister/


    Glazing would also help with noise reduction (as you can hear everything that goes on downstair upstairs at the moment which isn't great), but we are worried about keeping it clean - particualrly on the risers where we imagine it would collect lots of dust, which might be ok if it was being cleaned professionally every week- but we're unlikely to have time to keep them clean.


    It does seem like a dilemma, as we're really keen to keep it light and airy, but it also needs to be practical for our family.

  • keiblem
    hace 3 años

    I agree with you 100%. Design is all well and good but if it doesn’t function well then it soon loses its appeal and for me if it means more cleaning then forget it!

    The images on the blog look great though I notice that the treads are also ply.
    Like you I am not entirely convinced ply will work with teak. I think it would be a shame to paint the teak so could you do the reverse of what you propose, keep the teak and have painted the rails? Another consideration is painted rails will stand up to wear and tear much better than painted treads.

    Wumis suggestion to use metal is good though I would prefer something softer such as laser cut metal panels which come in all sorts of patterns. The coppery colour of Corten steel might look good. They would also create patterns from the light shining through from the roof light.

    Good lighting might be another consideration. Box in the treads and use strip LED lights hidden under the treads. Not quite the same but once the children are grown you could remove the risers. These could be painted to match the rails.

    I expect the teak is slathered in a hard varnish that crazes and scratches easily and cannot be repaired. It would be nice to take it back to the wood and finish it in something that is easier to maintain. I used Sikkins on new oak window frames which was a doddle to maintain. Mind you it won’t be so much of a doddle to strip the varnish off the teak! A job not for the faint hearted but, none the less, worthwhile.

    Gareth Sumner agradeció a keiblem
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