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Laundry Room
jlx3

How to treat front load washer spider-arm so that it wouldn't corrode?

jlx3
hace 6 años
última modificación:hace 6 años

Brand new Daewoo front load washer, 3 years in and the spider arm needs to be replaced. Can't believe it! A little research reveals that it is a common problem on front loads these days, particularly Korean brands (LG, Samsung, Daewoo...etc). Where is this info when you need it… like when researching before buying.

This is sorta what it looks like…

Here are some more examples from Google images.

Anyway, the reason the spider arm goes quick in these machines is because of an effect called “galvanic corrosion.” You see, the spider arm is made of aluminum, and what it is attached to - the drum - is made of stainless steel. Put these 2 metals together, add a little air and water, and you got the perfect recipe for corrosion – in this case, it’s the aluminum component that corrodes. Basically, the stainless steel causes the aluminum to corrode through an electrochemical process. I can’t believe they still manufacture them with suck obvious defect! How the hell are they not sued black and blue?!

At least that's the theory. Some say it's not galvanic corrosion because if it was than the corrosion (or most of it) would be at the points were the two metals meet - the shaft and the 3 ends.

In any case, now I’m getting ready to put in a new spider arm and trying to figure out how I can “treat it so that I could get at least 10 years out of it. Came across a post somewhere where this guy anodized his spider arm before installing. He reported back about 5 years later saying the machine was still as good as new. Would have been awesome if he’d reported back again a little later. Read also that Chromating it would work. And then there is priming it with epoxy zinc phosphate.

No idea which way to go. Anyone tried doing this? Any tips?


Also…the bearing looks perfectly fine. Is it usually replaced along with the spider arm for good measure…it’s not exactly cheap so I was wondering if I’ll end up regretting not doing so.

Respuesta destacada
  • Syberpro ㅤ
    hace 5 años
    Última modificación: hace 5 años

    I went to do a washing load and I heard a terrible noise from my washing machine... I knew it was the shaft that was broken. It could spin by itself but without any force so today I fixed my Spider Arm/Shaft on my Samsung machine. Using the video below It's not that difficult at all it just takes time.

    Purchased the part (DC97-12528A) at: https://electropiecescowansville.com...aft-et-spider/

    Helpful Video to disassemble the part: https://youtu.be/gTXoKMHHpLs

    I gave 2 Coat of Rust-Oleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy Paint on the shaft.



    Here are the results:

    Before & After




    Broken



    New part + Paint



    Let's see how this stands out

    Comentarios (19)

    • PRO
      Neptune Power Washing
      hace 6 años

      I don't think you can do anything as a consumer about it but I think Alcoa (or now Arconic) research should be working on solving this problem.

    • dadoes
      hace 5 años

      Proper use of the machine:

      - Avoid washing in cold water unless it's absolutely necessary for the fabric. Warm and HOT water is your friend. Keep in mind that temperatures are dumbed-down for EnergyStar ratings on the designated Normal cycle. Cold is chilled, Warm is cold, Hot is warm. Getting a true Warm or Hot fill requires selecting a stronger cycle (Heavy Duty, Allergen, Sanitary) and/or heavier soil level choice.

      - Avoid liquid fabric softener. My sister was given a 5yo Samsung frontloader by friends who destroyed it with softener overdosing (I repaired it). Everything was coated with waxy residue. The spider corroded, the hub broke out of it during spin. The rim of the basket tore a gash in the front of the tub.

      - Powder detergent is better than liquid for avoiding residue build-up.

      - Don't underdose detergent. Insufficient detergent doesn't condition mineral content in the water and doesn't hold laundry soils in suspension for flushing away ... soil and mineral residue deposits/sticks to machine parts and holds moisture which leads to deterioration. Oversudsing is not a good thing but insufficient detergent concentration is just as bad.

      - Chlorine bleach is also your friend. Use it regularly on your "whites" load (bath towels, kitchen linens, cotton socks). Or run a Heavy or Sanitary cycle with bleach and no clothes if you're loath to use it on clothes. Or run the tub clean (Samsung sometimes calls it "Pure Clean") cycle monthly, with chlorine bleach added to the main wash phase of that process. Watch a tub clean cycle from start to finish so you can determine when to add the bleach at the right time.

    • richard_mariu
      hace 5 años

      This issue reminds me of the BMW E60. That has an aluminium front which is attached to a steel "rest of the car". I think they used glue and special rivets to attach the front to the rest. I like this approach and its very clever. Interesting that the spindle that holds the bearing is steel too. Is the spider held on by long stainless steel bolts that run through from the other side. Quite the mix of metals. Good luck with the project.

    • MiMi
      hace 5 años

      Wow syberpro that looks really nice. I hope it works well for you.

    • Matthew Digby
      hace 4 años

      @Syberpro ㅤknow it’s a year later but had the same issue. Recently got a new spider arm and prepared to coat mine with the appliance epoxy as well. I’m curious though, how has that worked for you in the year passed? any white chips in your clothes? Reading the back of this epoxy is does not reccommend use on anything that’s constantly submerged in water so I want to be sure.

    • Syberpro ㅤ
      hace 4 años

      @Matthew Digby Had to issue since then. I wouldnt dare disassemble it but no white chips. Works great

    • Usuario de Houzz-558262440
      hace 3 años

      How long you've been using it now?

    • Usuario de Houzz-813659509
      hace 3 años

      i experimented with mine by etch priming a new spider and then filling the hollow side with epoxy resin n filler ( keep the weight down ) this lasted 10 years , 3 controllers and 2 motors and 2 pumps on a machine that was already 6 yrs old , yes it can be done but stock up on essential spares

    • Jacob Sol
      hace 2 años

      What did you use for etching and filling

    • Usuario de Houzz-439026024
      hace 2 años

      In a solution with a ph greater than 7 (soapy water) the electrode potential difference between stainless steel and aluminum results in galvanic corrossion.

      Clean water rinses help to extend the life of the spider (the sacrificial anode), but changing the spider to stainless (best option), or passivating the aluminum with an alodine coating are better approaches.

      The question becomes: do I spend $500 on a new drum/spider (the Frigidaire spider/shaft cannot be purchased separately), plus $100 to passivate the spider, or apply that money to a new commercial machine with a stainless spider (e.g. Maytag, Speed Queen). . . ?

    • PRO
      Neptune Power Washing
      hace 2 años

      As I wrote before, this is a problem for Alcoa (Arconic?) research to solve. I wonder if they have.

    • Usuario de Houzz-439026024
      hace 2 años

      Only if the company purchasing the aluminum from Arconic specifies passivation.

      I'm surprised there has not been class action lawsuit against the various manufacturers (that has nothing to do with Arconic).

    • Melissa Derrig
      hace 2 años

      I feel like, as a consumer, I should be able to spend $1,000 and not have to worry about applying an epoxy to my washer parts to make them last. But here I am, on this thread! And after 3 replaced drain pumps, I think I will just purchase an ugly top loader.

    • Syberpro ㅤ
      el último año

      Decided to keep you updated since my last post (4 years ago).... Still using the same washing machine :)

    • Usuario de Houzz-372628619
      el último año

      I couldn't agree MORE! I do maybe 2 loads of laundry a week. I blew through 2 front loaders in 8 years. Not overloaded at all. These two machines had a broken spider arm. Designed to die? Makes you 🤔. Waste of money! A repair costs close to the price of a new machine. They would replace it with the same thinthing that rotted!

    • Alphaman0606
      hace 7 meses

      These are Absolutely designed for the spider to fail just after the warranty expires! The spider replacement is the cost of replacing the machine if you have it professionally repaired! This is not an oversight but fraud!

    • Usuario de Houzz-737440482
      hace 4 meses
      Última modificación: hace 4 meses

      Miele use the same aluminium diecast spider. My Miele W5835WPS broke sudden loud bang . Crap unusual Miele practice. $$$ machines that Miele own warranty states will last 20 years of domestic use - what a laugh! Why not use a brass or stainless steel version? Using reactive aluminium is just asking for trouble bad enough, but to use a diecast version? Alkaline salts used in normal laundry detergent will react with Al. Just the worst of design engineering!

      Come on Miele!! -- you can do MUCH better than that. This a large "Achilles Tendon" in its current design.

    • Usuario de Houzz-262435810
      hace 3 meses

      We have a Miele W3204 which after 12 years of no problem use has failed due to spider failure on rear of drum , managed to obtain a used meile of same model. £80 from facebook market, works perfect. As an exe engineer on rolls royce aero engines, i decided to strip down the old machine, these are extremely well built from heavy gauge stainless steel. finally got down to the spider which was broken and heavily coroded, seems a shame that the quality machine is let down by such a bad design , a pressed stainless steel spider would have extended the life of washer by 10 years.

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