Thank you I will check it outout. Goodsize

"I plan to start by purchasing the main pieces first then looking at the space decide on the tables rugs lighting etc."

In thirty three years of design, I could say I have not once ever purchased a single stick of anything for anyone without a plan, or without knowing exactly what, what size and where it is going.. It would be no different than designing a kitchen, buying cabinetry and appliances and guessing what works well.

Below is your computer attempt at scale..............Call it NO lie. Note the dimensions,, bottom right.

This is yours, below " I can't get the program to tell me what size ....."

( I will hope that isn't a rug in front of that love seat. reclining, which doesn't really allow any coffee table. The small rug will CLUTTER and shrink the space.

None of us can tell you what to like in seating. Your room feel crowded because you have two couches versus one. ( Ps I realize the armoire is in the hall. It;s in your view and appears to loom, and in pictures.....closes in the entry.

"By the way curious why people feel a sofa and chair is better than two chairs and a love seat"

It may be because a couch is a prettier proportion. An 84 inch couch can have only two seat cushions versus one. Many have had loveseats, even in larger rooms and realized a chair could easily replace it.

Up to YOU : )

The reason your room feels choked is because the couch, is currently on the long left wall,

The point is your "mystery" is as below, NO mystery, and there is no mystery in the facts of available space contained within walls.

and again.....less below

What do I see?

Blah light colored walls, with a ton of brown , solid CLUNK placed within. : ) The couches are solid, the side tables are solid to floor, ditto the ottoman, entertainment center.

It is not only space , it is also decorative decisions.

Go beyond the very basic in window treatment, A natural woven wood shade, for texture, Lighting the room should include ambient and task. Not a fan of torchiere, but I would consider adding some recessed on dimmers

There are "fool the eye" tricks in design. Dark walls, and lighter in color furnishings is one. Why? Dark walls recede. They fool the eye into believing the room is larger than it appears.

A dark wall absorbs a tv on a wall.

Often...... the limits, are opportunities in disguise.: )

I actually don’t own a tv. I’m mostly an internet girly so watch all my movies on a laptop. I have thought about placing a tv in the room though and mounting it about the fireplace.

@housegal200 …… lol, exactly what I was thinking, ”don’t even THINK about a bean bag anything” …. omg!

This is the wall with the fireplace

You have a very nice, modern-design home with clean, simple lines. I would recommend to keep simmilar flair with the furniture. Also, I think this island white area should be painted the same color as the rest of the island.

I agree to stay far away from gray near the fireplace. The fireplace has warmish colors of cream and tan and that last sample picture of gray (or green, I can’t tell) is an obvious clash.

To answer the true color questions, this photo shows what happens when light hits the velvet.

The nap catches my eye and contributes to a feeling of being in a story sea. The showroom owner suggested buying a Bissell Little green machine, which I will do because there’s going to be eating and feet up that constantly disturb the nap,

I’m instead shifting my view to take this as an opportunity to not be responsible for a pristine appearance —especially hard for those of us who lean toward perfectionism. 🙂

This is a setup that you can try out. The proportions are a bit off in this photo but it can give you a general idea. The space seems small so you can only fit so much into it, therefore I suggest only using one of the accent chairs here if you want to keep it a TV viewing/living room area. This is not the exact console i'd use, it's to give a general idea of where to put the tv. You can put the table with the lamp on it on the right side of the sofa for task lighting. If you have another space in the house that would be a better fit for a tv area I'd consider exploring that too.

If you are ever short of natural light, buy more artificial light. I love trees and they make my home dark. I have north windows, and my south windows are under deep patio roofs. No amount of white paint can make up for insufficient light. To add insult to injury, white paint just looks grey and dusty. The only fix to not enough light is more light fixtures. And I'm sick of dusty dingy wall colors. I want rich, sumptuous interior colors, not dust. I want dark backgrounds to show off all the light fixtures, art, views to the yard, and the beautiful grain of the wood furniture in my home. When I turn down the lights in the evening or when I first wake up, I don't want my walls to look blah. I want them to glow in a deep velvety color where the light touches them.

Please show results or progress in all your posts. You have such a lovely and interesting home.

Hellogardener, I decided on color, BM Mysterious for the library (dark blacky blue). The problem is, is that we have too many things on the go at once so I have many paritally completed spaces! My husband won’t budge on the neutral, kind of boring living room paint for right now.

I find it difficult to embrace many styles of lighting, so don't mind me. Mine is a complicated relationship. But I'd never get past my first thought of how much it resembles the edging on a ladyfinger cake. I'd probably chuckle to myself every time I saw it IRL. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but probably not the desired reaction.

Way too big! For hallways, measure length and width of space and divide by 2.

The chandelier would look better over a dining table and you weren't looking up into a hole. The 25" one would look better and probably the correct size. Currey and Company shows how it is white washed. Your does look yellow....maybe the light bulbs are wrong color?

Your designer should know how to choose a chandelier size, BTW.

I think it's too big for that space. Find something smaller than that and it will be good.

mustard or sage is not the first colors that come to mind with a brown leather sofa.

a dark olive green, a dark gray or even blue would compliment the Brown leather.

It's a realatively small space, you could use the mustard in accents. Will you get an area rug?

https://rugs.com/brown-10x11-amina-area-rug-6251296?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22923419515&gbraid=0AAAAAC-j9AuA9rKOv137YqeHMWgNW_vVx&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6vnxj_mblgMVfDQIBR3gVwAKEAQYBiABEgLEsfD_BwE

I will definitely be adding a rug! I hadn’t thought of blue but just saw a post about it.

When you have a brown leather sofa, think about colors in nature - especially for accent colors.

I agree with Lyn above - I forgot to pull a dark gray photo!

Personally, this blue is not something I would use - however, it is a popular color:

Olive Green - I think darker would even look better:

BM Hale Navy was the color of the year several years ago - I still see rooms where people are using it now.

If you want to throw in mustard yellow (+ some other pop of color) - SW Alabaster might looks nice:

SW Evergreen Fog was also the "color of the year" a few years ago:

If you want to try something bold!

There are many greens that will work with the brown leather that you have:

You asked about a color scheme, and that should be personal preference, not what is trendy. In developing a whole-house color scheme I would love forever, I was helped significantly by this article and the ones embedded in it from the same author: https://www.fromhousetohome.com/whole-house-color-scheme/

Work through it a couple times. "Warm" color schemes primarily are leaning towards yellows and oranges at the moment, but the other option is reds, and my heart sings with the reds... in the form of cool espresso chocolate browns. These are getting less attention, but I thought I should mention them in case you like them better than the mainstream caramels. I especially like the chocolates balanced with cool steely blue greys to create a neutral base to the whole color scheme.

I also love organic contemporary styles and look forward to your project.

If you’re not planning on painting then stick to neutral color that will work with a lot of different color schemes. I prefer to stick with draperies that are pretty close to the color of the wall or a tad darker.

If you’re feeling pressure to cover windows but not quite sure what you want, there are paper cellular blinds that make do until you know what you want. These are good on smaller windows and great for areas like the bedrooms and bathroom.

If you’re not sure about a color scheme then look at rooms that you love. You might find that you gravitate towards particular colors. Going neutral in your big pieces like the upholstery gives you more freedom to change things up if you’re a person who likes to do that more often.

I had to laugh as my husband marveled at how innovative it was to entertain the grandkids by having puzzles on the cork floors upstairs being renovated... no furniture. He previously was concerned, thinking the floor would be too hard. But my 7-year-old grandson first sat down on it and spread his hands on it and said, "Oooooo" at how comfortable it was. After a couple days, my 10-year-old local granddaughter declared that bedroom should always be for puzzling on the floor. Cork flooring up here was a great choice.

At the end of the hallway, by the window, the shelving for the two shallow closets with mirrored doors went up yesterday. After they are painted and the doors go back up, we won't be able to see them as clearly, so I got this picture. I left more space at the top (17") and more at the bottom (24" or 18") and had smaller spaces in between. I look forward to moving items upstairs as soon as these closets are finished. Our downstairs bathroom and utility closet are packed full of cleaning supplies and back-up personal care items during this renovation.

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I always wonder why kitchen designers suggest dividers/pegs in drawers to store different size plates, etc. I store plates/bowls, etc. in drawers and no pegs or dividers are necessary. The weight of the items perfectly hold them in place and you could even add the rubbery drawer liners if storing small items more likely to shift. But the pegs and dividers take up room and make it a less versatile storage location.

For everyone saying a TV above the FP is too high, there is a product called Mantel Mount that allows the TV to be pulled down to your preferred height when in use and pushed back up when not in use. You can add on a bracket for a sound bar and they make a paintable cover that goes over the wall mounting bracket, so you don’t see the mounting hardware. Wouldn’t it be great if we all had an extra room or the perfect place to prop a TV that followed design principles - sarcasm because no one watches TV in their living room. 🙄

We put in a bathroom with a towel bar that is also a grab bar, glass enclosed curbless shower with stationary shower head on one side, a hand held shower head on an adjustable bar, a grab bar and fold down seat. Little did I know that 5 years later I’d be dealing with a hip replacement. It came in very handy!

Grab bars! And not just beside the shower seats. They are also very useful getting in and out of shower enclosure. Especially if you have a curb.

I like the no-door/partition options because it means less glass to keep clean; aging in place is just a bonus. Defiitely going to keep some of these for inspo in planning my bathroom remodel.

Now that sounds like a good plan! Those heavy appliances being stored away, but easier to handle is a great idea. I think a lot of us never use our heavy mixers for this reason - moving them around makes us decide to just not do it.

The pantry configuration/usage sounds good.

I can’t tell from the rendering. Is the pantry being built as a cabinet that attaches to the wall or as a pantry closet with stud and wall construction?

You are going to need heavy duty pull out shelves to hold the weight of those appliances and maybe some anchoring to the wall studs and blocking. The pantry floor will need to be flush with the kitchen flooring for easy roll-out.

My stand mixer with bowl and food processor are heavy without taking into account the accessories’ weight. I would give the combined weight to the cabinetmaker and kitchen contractor to be sure that the cabinet rollout shelf and hardware will easily support the weight.

@kl23 your counters are beautiful!