Landscape Ideas
9. ‘Blue Elf’ Aloe (Aloe ‘Blue Elf’) This small aloe species does what most aloes don’t: It thrives in full, reflected sun. Hummingbirds are attracted to the dark orange flowers that appear in late winter and last into early spring, providing needed color in the cool season. ‘Blue Elf’ aloe starts out small but gradually increases in width as it produces new growth. Plant it alongside golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) for texture and color contrast. Origin: Aloes are native to South Africa, but the parentage of this hybrid is unknown. Where it will grow: Hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (Zone 8) Water requirement: Low Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to light shade Mature size: 1½ feet tall and 2 feet wide See how to grow ‘Blue Elf’ aloe
Front porch and back yard
Botanical name: Melampodium leucanthum Common name: Blackfoot daisy Origin: Native to the Central Plains and southwestern United States, and on into northern Mexico Where it will grow: Hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zone 5; find your zone) Water requirement: Low Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to filtered shade Mature size: 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide Benefits and tolerances: Extremely drought tolerant once established; does best when watered two or three times a month during the summer and once a month in winter Seasonal interest: Flowers in spring and fall in the low desert; will bloom in summertime in cooler zones When to plant: Spring and fall; can be grown from seed or transplants
Botanical name: Baileya multiradiata Common name: Desert marigold Origin: Native to the Southwestern United States into northern Mexico Where it will grow: Hardy to -10 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zone 6; find your zone) Water requirement: Low Light requirement: Full, reflected sun Mature size: 1 foot tall and wide Benefits and tolerances: Extremely drought tolerant once established; can survive on natural rainfall, but will appreciate water once or twice a month during dry periods Seasonal interest: Flowers in spring through fall; also flowers during the winter in warmer zones When to plant: Spring and fall; can be grown from seed or transplants
It’s important to note that all plants profiled below require well-drained soil and, in many cases, some supplemental watering. The amount and frequency of watering depend on several variables, including exposure, temperature and soil. A good rule of thumb is to water 8 inches deep and then allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Succulents need more water in spring, when they are actively growing, and very little in winter. 1. Rock Purslane (Calandrinia spectabilis) Gray-green leaves form a dense mound that is transformed by the appearance of magenta flowers spring through fall. The flowers are about 2 inches wide and last one day, with new ones ready to take their place the following day. For an eye-catching combination, pair rock purslane with pig’s ear (Cotyledon orbiculata), a succulent that produces orange flowers. Rock purslane does best in Mediterranean climates but is suitable as a container plant and can be treated as an annual in colder climates. Origin: Chile Where it will grow: Hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 6.7 degrees Celsius (USDA Zone 9; find your zone) Water requirement: Low Light requirement: Full sun or filtered shade Mature size: 1 foot ta...
Silvery blue senecio trails over the edges of a container. 12. Senecio (Senecio spp.) Native to South Africa, senecio — commonly called blue chalk sticks — forms a silvery-blue carpet when planted as a ground cover or as a cooling accent in low-water container combinations. The most common varieties are S. mandraliscae and its slightly smaller counterpart, S. serpens. Where it will grow: Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 degrees Celsius (zones 9 to 11) Water requirement: Low to moderate Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade in desert regions Mature size: 6 inches to 2 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide More Succulents in Containers: The Ultimate Easy-Care Mini Garden A Beginner’s Guide to Growing Succulents
7. Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum) Hens-and-chicks, also called houseleeks, are some of the most cold-hardy succulents available, with some species tolerant of subfreezing temperatures. There are many textures and forms, from tiny spheres covered in cobweb-like threads to rosettes. Grow them in containers below larger succulents, or show off their diversity of forms in a tabletop rock garden. Native to European mountain slopes, hens-and-chicks thrive in quick-draining soil with little summer water.
5. Echeveria (Echeveria spp.) Perhaps the most widely planted succulent, echeveria is well-loved for its rose-like form with fleshy leaves in a rainbow of colors. Echeveria is originally native to Mexico, and there are as many as 180 species, with even more hybrids available. Plant a single standout echeveria as the focal point of a mixed low-water container, or mass multicolored echeverias for the look of everlasting flowers.
Show off the starburst form of foxtail agave (Agave attenuata ‘Ray of Light’ is shown here) by planting it on its own in a container. Foxtail agaves are more sensitive to cold and baking heat than other species. Keep them out of direct sun in hot climates and provide shelter from frost. Where it will grow: Varies widely by species; some are hardy to 35 degrees Fahrenheit, or 1.7 degrees Celsius (zones 10 to 12); others are hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (Zone 8) Water requirement: Low; a few species need moderate water Light requirement: Full sun is best for most; some require partial shade. Mature size: 1 foot tall and wide to more than 4 feet tall and wide, depending on variety Learn more about growing agave
2. Agave (Agave spp.) With their bold architectural forms, agaves make great statement plants in containers. For small to medium-size planters, look for varieties that stay fairly compact, like ‘Blue Glow’ agave (Agave ‘Blue Glow’), shown here, artichoke agave (Agave parryi var. truncata) and foxtail agave (Agave attenuata).
Up close, you can see how the panels also feature cutouts of local birds often seen in the area — hummingbirds, northern flickers, chickadees and an eagle. Behind the screens, the team planted orange flowering ‘Jelena’ witch hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Jelena’) for winter interest and added privacy. The homeowners can now enjoy their yard while also connecting with neighbors and passersby — who might catch a glimpse of this leafy paradise from over the fence or through the strategic slat spacing. “There are more people looking into the yard [than ever before],” Batten says. “People are so excited about it.” More on Houzz Read more stories about patios Browse thousands of patio photos Shop for your outdoor spaces Hire a landscape contractor
1. Western Redbud (Cercis occidentalis) Native to Northern California, the Sierras, the San Joaquin Valley and the extreme southwest of California to Utah and Arizona Loved by: Cassy Aoyagi of FormLA Landscaping in Los Angeles Why this tree: “Western redbud brings ever-changing seasonal color to a garden,” Aoyagi says. Bright pink blooms emerge in late winter and early spring, with heart-shaped green leaves appearing soon after. In fall and early winter, the leaves transition to red and mahogany. Special feature: The flowers attract hummingbirds and other pollinators — and can also make delicious additions to salads (western redbuds are in the pea family).
What’s the Best Type of Container for Growing Trees? Templar and Prouse say pots should be no bigger than needed. “Don’t use a huge pot for a small tree,” Reynolds echoes. “And every few years, repot it into a slightly bigger container.” This should also reduce the need for excessive pruning. Aside from that, you’ll need to consider durability, water retention and, of course, the style of your garden. As for materials, concrete and terra cotta are heavy enough that they shouldn’t blow over. Do ensure your choice is frost-resistant, though, or it risks cracking in cold weather. “Terra cotta dries out more quickly than other materials, so the tree will need more frequent watering,” Reynolds says. “While wooden planters retain water better and will cope better in cold weather, they’re more susceptible to rot, so lining them is a good idea.” Metal is another option, though it can rust. Reynolds suggests getting around this by choosing Cor-Ten steel, as the rusting is a self-protecting layer that looks attractive. Prouse says he favors plastic. “That’s mainly due to its durability and protection against frost,” he explains. “It’s also lightweight and easy to move around, and you can dri...
How Should Container Trees Be Fed? Container trees need a bit more attention than trees in the ground. All our experts underline the benefits of repotting every other spring and replacing around one-third of the soil with fresh compost to provide a nutrient boost. Templar advises mixing the new soil with a slow-release fertilizer. “I’m a fan of blood, fish and bone,” Prouse says. “It promotes healthy root growth and is a long-lasting feed.” How to Feed Your Plants for a Healthier Garden
What’s the Best Soil for a Container Tree? Generally, a loam-based compost is suitable, though some trees, such as maples, prefer acidic soils. As with fruit trees, Templar advises mixing compost with one-third grit sand before placing it in a container. Don’t forget to boost drainage and stop the soil from running out of the pot’s holes by adding gravel to the bottom. When watering, Templar says it’s best to allow the top surface of the soil to dry out, then drench. Reynolds says a layer of mulch on top will help retain the water and that feet beneath the pot are a good idea on patios, so water can drain easily. Container Gardening Basics: The Dirt on Soil
Can Fruit Trees Be Grown in a Container? Dwarf varieties of plum (pictured), apple, pear — even peach and apricot — make good container plants, though soft fruit trees will need winter protection. “Fruit trees will need good, free-draining compost, a sheltered, full-sun spot, frequent watering during hot spells, and fertilizing,” Prouse says. Templar advises: “Fill your container with good-quality compost mixed with one-third grit sand, position the pot in full sun, and feed with a high-potassium feed [every two weeks] during the growing season.” Reducing the quantities of fruit-bearing shoots will reduce potential damage to overladen trees, as will careful positioning — out of the wind or tied to a wall — so the tree can’t blow over. Pollination is a key factor to bear in mind as well. “As a general rule, fruit trees will need another of the same tree flowering at the same time to cross-pollinate in order to fruit, though there are some self-pollinating varieties,” Reynolds says. Templar adds that hand pollination may be required if the trees are kept inside greenhouses.
What Are Some Favorite Container-Suitable Trees? Reynolds recommends Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, zones 5 to 8). The version pictured here is a single-stemmed variety, but Reynolds loves the multistemmed form of this tree. “It really lends itself to being grown in a pot, creating a beautiful focal point,” she says. Prouse picks out the ‘Orange Dream’ Japanese maple variety, of which he says: “Blink and it’s changed color again. It’s good for constant color changes throughout the growing season.” Two more of his favorites are the versatile flowering cherry (Prunus incisa ‘Kojo no mai’, zones 6 to 9) — “simply stunning, delicate flowers, beautiful autumnal color, small in stature” — and serviceberry (Amelanchier lamarckii, zones 4 to 8) — “one of my favorite trees: stunning spring flowers and breathtaking autumnal colors.” “I love to see Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum ‘Skyrocket’, zones 4 to 9) and olive trees (Olea europaea, zones 8 to 11) in container gardens,” Templar says. “Or, for a bit of a feature plant, we often use star magnolia (Magnolia stellata, zones 4 to 8).”
Why Grow Trees in Containers? There are several reasons why growing trees in pots can be a great idea. You can protect delicate varieties. “Having trees in pots allows you to grow varieties — such as sweet bay (Laurus nobilis, USDA zones 8 to 11; find your zone), for example — that wouldn’t otherwise survive [in cold-winter climates], as you can take them into a greenhouse or somewhere protected over winter,” Katie Reynolds of Katie Reynolds Design says. “Using pots also means you can grow a species that might not otherwise be suited to your garden soil type,” she says. “For example, a maple (Acer spp.) or serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) prefers an acidic soil, so you can use ericaceous compost to provide the best conditions for the tree.” Reynolds adds that containers also make it easier to grow a tree in a small area like a patio. “[They] are also useful for people renting, as you can take the trees with you when you move house,” she says. Find a landscape designer near you
Eastern versus western exposure. Areas with an eastern exposure have a distinct advantage over other exposures: They can receive six hours of morning sun but can be easily shaded from the scalding afternoon heat with a well-placed shade tree. Western exposure can be the most challenging, because it is where plants will become very dry in the intense afternoon heat. The sun builds radiant heat on the earth’s surface over the course of the day. By late afternoon a lot of heat has built up on surfaces and radiates back into the atmosphere. This can cause plants to languish and wilt. For this reason, western exposures are great for drought-tolerant plants that thrive in the heat. Be sure to add organic matter to your soil and mulch heavily to retain moisture there.
Northern versus southern exposure. The north-facing areas of your landscape will be the coolest spots, because they receive the least amount of radiant heat and direct light from the sun. Additionally, they can be exposed to fierce winter winds. You’ll notice that the north side of your house is where snow will take the longest to melt in spring, if it snows where you live. It’s also a few degrees cooler than the rest of your yard year-round. This means that you don’t want to plant a frost-sensitive plant in an area with northern exposure in a warm-climate garden. South-facing areas receive plentiful sunshine. At times they might receive too much sun and become dry, or the plants’ foliage will burn from overexposure to intense light. Either plant full-sun plants that are heat tolerant or shade the area with a deciduous tree that will provide shade during summer and let in light during winter.
11. Compose a palette of stones in many hues. Even if your plantings are minimal, you can still have rich color in your yard. There are many different colors of gravel and stones available, including pale cream, gray, red, purple and black. Want to shake up the look even more? Try smooth sea glass pebbles or shells in an area that gets less foot traffic. Not as linear but I really like the idea.
8. Echo your home’s architecture. When planning your outdoor rooms, think about mirroring the shape of your home in materials as well as in how your outdoor spaces flow together. For instance, in the space shown here, long, rectangular pavers mirror the rectangular shapes in the siding, and the layout of the paths and yard closely follows the shape of the house itself, creating a seamless design. So the case at Casa Laurent is curves!!!!!
6. Plant a native meadow. If you have a larger outdoor space to contend with, you may not want to cover it all in gravel or stone. Think instead about creating a low-maintenance “meadow” of native plants that requires little water or upkeep. A local landscaping pro or a staffer at a good garden center should be able to guide you in choosing plants that will do well in your area. This is also a good option for sloped yards, where hardscaping would be more difficult. Find plants native to U.S. regions I like most of this!!
There are few plants that possess such a deep shade of green as monkey grass (Liriope spp), shown here. Astoundingly, it stays that lush with little to no irrigation (especially when planted in the shade). It’s not a grass at all, but a tuberous plant in the asparagus family, with dainty purple or white flowers in spring. L. spicata can be highly invasive in some areas, but L. muscari is a well-behaved clumping plant that can be used without fear of its escaping into the wild. It is hardy to zones 6 to 9. Hummmm
Plants with rhizomes, corms and tubers are well adapted to drought. Cactuses and succulents store water in their leaves, but many other species are adapted for storing water underground. Many bulbs burst from the ground in early spring when it is cool and moist, and then go dormant for the rest of the year. Others, such as the comfrey plant (Symphytum officinale, zones 4 to 8), shown here, have thick, fleshy roots that penetrate deep into the subsoil and provide moisture to the leaves during dry periods. Comfrey has some of the largest, lushest leaves for a plant of its size — when it’s grown in the shade, the leaves can reach 2 feet in length. Impressive!!!
Another sign of drought tolerance in the plant kingdom is hairy leaves. Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina, zones 4 to 9) is a classic example. A low-growing, spreading plant, it makes a lush carpet with virtually no irrigation required. Use it as a ground cover, a filler or edging. More ways to spot a drought-tolerant plant
Mediterranean plants are generally a good bet for drought tolerance. On their own they create an arid look, but some have an incredibly lush feel and can easily be slipped into other planting schemes. Blue-gray foliage is one of nature’s signs of a plant with low water needs, and those plants can be employed to create a cool, soothing tone in the landscape. Powis Castle artemisia (Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’, zones 6 to 8), pictured here, is one of those plants. Its lacy leaves have the texture of silk and emit a heady aroma when you brush up against them.
“Our current drought has taught us we need to change the way we think of landscaping,” says Paul Groth, professor emeritus of architecture and geography at the University of California, Berkeley. Of the revised restrictions, he says, “The most striking effects will be in all-new areas at the growing edges of towns and cities, and perhaps in the use of greywater systems encouraged by the new regulations.“ Landscape designer Grace says the rule changes won’t alter how she designs. “We’ve been guided by our own compass much more than by what is required by local agencies and ordinances. What it will do is create the environment in which our clients are receptive to new ideas, new design solutions.” Grace adds, “A Mediterranean climate with its rhythm of seasonal rain followed by the dry season supports a rich and varied flora — and fauna — with its own unique charms and its own unique attractions.” More: How to Replace Your Lawn With a Garden Grow a Beautiful Garden With Ecofriendly Greywater Find a landscape architect or designer near you
The Department of Water Resources expects the new water ordinance to cut water use in California homes by 12,000 gallons a year, or 20 percent, and in commercial landscapes by roughly 35 percent. It anticipates that California will add 472,000 single- and multi-family homes, with 20,000 associate acres of landscape, in the next three years. Officials say it’s important to have these landscape standards in place for future growth. The water commission sees these updates as regulating what has already become a standard in California, as many residents have been reducing their lawns on their own. “The community is saving water, but at the same time they are seeing new developments go in, with the high water use associated with those,” Lake says. California’s landscape designers have been cutting back on water consumption in their own projects as well. The San Diego chapter of the Association of Landscape Architects distributed a position paper in 2009 outlining and encouraging the adoption of policies and practices relating to water conservation and the value of regionally appropriate landscapes.
Under the revised regulations, each new landscape will have a water allowance that equates to roughly 25 percent cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, or other high-water-use plants. In general terms, the water allowance is a calculation that includes the amount of water plantings use — as defined by the University of California’s Water Use Classification of Landscape Species — and a landscape’s irrigation efficiency. Landscapes of less than 2,500 square feet will have the option of meeting a prescribed checklist of features rather than adhering to a water allowance. Additionally, landscapes of less than 2,500 square feet watered entirely by greywater or captured rainwater may follow an irrigation checklist rather than be subject to the entire ordinance. The state water board adjusted the proposal to allow the checklist option after a comment period in which the California Landscape Contractors Association and others voiced concerns that the water-allowance model was too complicated for smaller residential landscapes to follow. “I thought they did a good job of listening,” says the association’s Larry Rohlfes. ”It just makes more sense.”
Pretty much everything I don't like. Too much in a small space. Too much of everything. Prefer simple.
I like the dry river rock for front gutter drain as a rain capture element I really like bright red plant. What is it?
“I think the California landscape could look amazing in the next five years,” Jachlewski says. “With turf being reserved for recreational use … the remaining landscape can be transformed into a ‘California style’ of native plants that provide seasonal interest, flowers, textures and habitat value that will attract birds, butterflies and pollinators to our landscapes. California offers many lush-looking native and climate-appropriate nonnative plant species that will transform our landscapes into beautiful, dynamic settings to enjoy.”
3. Plant a rain garden. Plant a slightly sunken area with water-loving rushes, shrubs, trees and perennials. Rain gardens can be large areas designed to absorb a lot of runoff, or they can be pocket-sized plantings of bog and streambed plants sited in an area of the garden that stays consistently moist. How to Site and Size a Rain Garden for Your Landscape
7 Ways to Improve Drainage 1. Amend your soil. For compacted soils, digging in organic material and breaking up any compacted areas improves soil texture and drainage. Well-amended soil essentially acts like a more effective sponge: The soil has an increased capacity to retain needed moisture, but gaps between soil particles allow excess water to drain through. Some people will recommend additives such as gypsum mineral salts to help break up heavy clay soils, but for most home gardens, adding a good dose of organic compost is equally effective at improving soil structure.
If you're inspired ... Lawn Gone is a great resource for more information on landscaping with less lawn, including how to eradicate existing lawn areas. It also offers regionally appropriate plant suggestions. Tell us: Have you replaced all or part of your lawn? More: Are You Ready to Lose the Lawn?
Replace lawns with larger, ornamental plants for more visual punch and biodiversity. Larger spaces can go lawn free with mixed plantings of perennials, shrubs, trees and grasses. This type of landscape renovation solves the monoculture problems that are inherent with lawns. Greater plant diversity welcomes birds, butterflies and other wildlife, and promotes a more normal ecosystem in general. Large lawns are visual deserts. Replacing them with more diverse plantings creates a feast for the eyes that creates interest and invites interaction with the landscape. Color, texture, form and fragrance — all of the garden elements that we prize — can transform a boring lawn into a beautiful outdoor space.
Replace small lawn areas with a low-maintenance perennial ground cover. Small areas and those that are hard to access may best be served by this low-maintenance solution. Once established, a mass of ground cover has a simple, calming effect. Proper plant selection will eliminate mowing, reduce water consumption and drastically reduce the need to fertilize — saving you time and money. Choose a plant with multiseason interest: flowers, colorful foliage, winter texture. Some ground covers will tolerate a small amount of foot traffic, too. Creeping lilyturf (Liriope spp, zones 5 to 9), shown here, has a lush, grass-like look and is also evergreen. Additional choices — depending on your garden's growing conditions — might include periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus, zones 4 to 9), creeping thyme (Thymus praecox, zones 4 to 9) or snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum, zones 3 to 9). More plants for your pathways
The style of your no-lawn landscape should reflect the architecture of your home.
If you enjoy seeing butterflies, birds and bees, then having a diversity of flowers is key. These flowers can be on trees, shrubs or perennials. If you feel you could do with less lawn, think of tilling up some of it and overseeding with a regional native seed mix. Fall is a great time for getting seeds into bare soil, as many seeds need a cold and wet winter to germinate the following year. Lawns are ecological dead zones, meaning the wildlife they support is infinitesimal to what a forest, prairie, marsh or even desert can support. The more lawn you take out and replace — even with clover or other blooming ground covers — the better the environment will be. Cities in California and other nearby states are paying residents up to $2 per square foot to remove lawn and replace it with drought-tolerant native landscapes or permeable hardscapes. The EPA says lawn equipment emits 11 times the pollution as cars. If we can shrink lawns or use electric mowers and organic lawn care, then we will have not only beautiful landscapes, but healthy ones, too.
Rain gardens do more than reduce stormwater runoff. “Amended soils of a rain garden help to create a living sponge that absorbs and holds water longer for plants,” Whitworth says, which leads to healthier soils and gardens that need less supplemental water. Plus, rain gardens planted with native and pollinator-friendly plants can become habitat areas for birds, insects, frogs, turtles and other wildlife.
5. Add Pollinator-Friendly Plants Even if you don’t have an entirely native plant garden, include some plants that are friendly to birds, butterflies and bees for a planting scheme that supports local wildlife. When planting pollinator-friendly blooms, mass them in clumps or bands so they can be spotted from a distance. In this Paris rooftop garden, landscape designer Kevin Clare used a row of yellow yarrow (Achillea sp.) and magenta valerian (Centranthus sp.), both favored by bees and butterflies, to add color and support pollinators in the city. Attract Hummingbirds and Bees With These Beautiful Summer Flowers
6. Install a Greywater System If you keep a bucket in your shower to collect water to use in your garden, then you’re already using a form of greywater, the gently used water from showers, bathtubs, laundry and sinks. You can take this a step further by directing your greywater directly into your landscape through pipes that connect to your house (this is a great way to water trees). Greywater systems vary in complexity, with laundry-to-landscape systems being the most popular and straightforward. Not only does a greywater system capture and repurpose water that would otherwise be sent to the storm drains, it also reduces your home’s carbon footprint because the water no longer needs to be treated. Additionally, it returns water to the aquifers and recharges the soils, all the while helping you grow a beautiful garden. Cost: If you are hiring someone, expect to pay at least $1,000 for a laundry-to-landscape system, $2,000 for a branched drain system and $4,000 for a pumped system. Complex systems can be quite a bit more. See the full project More Native Plants 101 To Manage Stormwater Sustainably, Understand Your Site Get ideas for more Earth-friendly outdoor projects
3. Add a Rain Garden Instead of sending the rainwater that lands on your property downstream via pipes and storm drains, rain gardens drain it on site, reducing strains on our stormwater systems, naturally cleaning the water as it percolates back down into the earth and creating habitat for local wildlife. Rain gardens can be as small as a planted bed at the bottom of a downspout or large enough to take up a significant portion of the landscape. Rain gardens don’t only benefit rainy regions. In arid climates they help recharge the aquifers, and in areas with more regular rainfall they can prevent flooding and rainwater from overwhelming storm drains and water systems downstream, all while creating a beautifully planted space. Cost: Expect to pay $3 to $5 per square foot to install one yourself, and $7 to $12 per square foot if you hire a professional. See the full project
Planting: Now for the fun part. In the western U.S., you can plant during much of the year, but doing so in fall and winter means that plants will have the benefit of cool-season rains to become established before the heat of summer. This actually holds true (for trees and shrubs) in many other parts of the country as well, because root growth does not halt until temperatures belowground dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. First Steps Watch for incentives. Some cities offer rebates for homeowners who replace their lawn with less thirsty plants and/or low-volume irrigation. Check with your municipality before beginning your project. Get and save ideas. Browse photos of low-water landscapes. (Tip: Select your area on the left side of the Houzz Photos page.) Then save your favorites in an ideabook. Get help if you need it. Find landscape architects and landscape contractors in your area. Or make it a DIY project. Several Houzz ideabooks can help you start thinking about your project, including The Case for Losing the Traditional Lawn, 7 Low-Maintenance Grass Alternatives and Get Along With Less Lawn. Or look for books on xeriscaping at your local library or bookstore. More: Find guides t...
Permit: Usually permits are not needed for planting projects, but if your project is larger than 2,500 square feet, check with your municipality, because special landscape ordinances may apply. In addition, check local codes if you plan to redo your parkway (or hell strip). Best time to do this project: It depends on your lawn-removal method and your climate. How to Get Rid of the Grass Here are two ways to kill your lawn without herbicides. When the ground is soft enough to work, you can: Dig, dig, dig. Although many experts discourage this method because it can create a ripe environment for weeds to germinate in — not to mention the toll it takes on one’s back — this is fastest method. You can physically remove sod by cutting it into strips with a sod cutter, rolling the strips up, and either taking them away or turning them over and letting them compost in place. If your lawn is Bermuda grass, you will have to dig out the deeply rooted grass stolons, shaking the excess soil from the roots as you go. Use the lasagna method. This technique uses layers of cardboard or newspaper as well as a thick layer of organic mulch to deprive the lawn of light and water. The grass will die in ...
4. You would like to spend less time and money maintaining a lawn. With the average homeowner spending 150 hours per year on lawn care, it’s no wonder that the no-lawn movement is gaining popularity. Depending on the composition of the plants chosen (and whether low-maintenance ground covers, such as gravel, are incorporated), a shrub- and perennial-dominated yard should take between 25 to 75 hours a year to maintain. Select native plants or those compatible with your region’s climate and soil, and you’ll save on fertilizer, herbicides and other items as well.
Project: Nix the lawn and grow a garden. Why: As homeowners face the rising costs of maintaining a lawn — both financial and environmental — many are choosing to remove or reduce turfgrass in favor of a climate-friendly mix of plants and soft, water-permeable paving. It’s a good project for you if: 1. You are concerned about water and energy conservation. The typical suburban lawn consumes 10,000 gallons of water above and beyond rainwater each year, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. We don’t often think about how water and energy use are linked, but reducing a landscape’s water use also saves energy, since it takes considerable energy to pump, heat, treat and deliver water.
Gardening Guides | California Native Plants | California Gardening | Purple Flowers | Flowers | Gardening for Butterflies | Native Plants | Flowers and Plants | Blue Flowers Great Native Plant: Cleveland Sage Get a whiff of this salvia for a garden experience to remember. Oh, and you can almost forget about maintenance 4/23/13
Gravel and pebbles. In general, select gravel or pebbles that complement your pavers. For a subtle look, choose gravel that picks up the colors of the paving stones. Pale pavers paired with dark gravel (or vice versa) creates a more dramatic garden path. • Gravel: The cost of gravel varies by type of rock and size of stone as well as what is more widely available per region. Decomposed granite (also called “granite fines”) have the smallest particle sizes, while coarse gravels can have rocks over an inch wide. • Pea gravel: This attractive gravel is widely available and has a satisfying crunch underfoot. One drawback: The rounded pebbles tend to travel up onto pavers. • Mexican beach pebble and polished river rocks: Larger rocks have a chunky, tactile quality between pavers and the added benefit that their weight keeps them from traveling. How to Choose the Right Gravel for Your Garden
Gravel and pebbles. In general, select gravel or pebbles that complement your pavers. For a subtle look, choose gravel that picks up the colors of the paving stones. Pale pavers paired with dark gravel (or vice versa) creates a more dramatic garden path. • Gravel: The cost of gravel varies by type of rock and size of stone as well as what is more widely available per region. Decomposed granite (also called “granite fines”) have the smallest particle sizes, while coarse gravels can have rocks over an inch wide. • Pea gravel: This attractive gravel is widely available and has a satisfying crunch underfoot. One drawback: The rounded pebbles tend to travel up onto pavers. • Mexican beach pebble and polished river rocks: Larger rocks have a chunky, tactile quality between pavers and the added benefit that their weight keeps them from traveling. How to Choose the Right Gravel for Your Garden
• Cut stone: Cut stone works well with any garden type, from traditional to cottage-style. A wide variety of cut stones are available in hues and materials from desert gold granite to cool-toned bluestone, and prices can vary. • Flagstone: Pathways made of irregular flagstones fitted together add texture to the landscape. Due to the time it takes to fit the slabs together, installation can be more expensive than for cut stone. Flagstones complement Mediterranean-, ranch- and desert-style gardens.
Material Options Pavers. When choosing pavers, there are a number of qualities to consider, such as shape, size, color and cost. • Precast pavers: Precast concrete pavers are available in square, rectangular and circular shapes and can be one of the most inexpensive options. The downside: The pavers themselves are usually fairly small (1 foot by 1 foot is most commonly available) and often come standard in only a few colors (light gray, dark gray and terra cotta). • Concrete: Cast-in-place concrete runs more expensive than precast but opens more possibilities in the design. You can pour larger landing pads or nonstandard forms, such as long, narrow rectangles. Concrete of any form looks chic in contemporary gardens, particularly paired with dark gravel.
Typical project length: Installation time depends on the size of the path and complexity of the materials. Walkways made of custom poured concrete or those that require fitting together irregular flagstones will take longer than those using precast pavers. Project length can vary from multiple days for a simple installation to several weeks for more in-depth designs or difficult sites. Best time to start: Dry season. Ideally, paths should be installed start to finish on dry soil and, if using poured concrete, in relatively warm weather.
Garden paths made of pavers set into gravel are one of the most popular walkway styles due to their natural look, permeability for rainwater and versatility in design. Given the wide range of materials available and opportunities for different combinations, walkways made of pavers and pebbles work with all garden styles. For example, you can pair poured concrete slabs with dark gravel for a contemporary look or set irregular flagstones in warm-toned decomposed granite for a more Mediterranean feel. If you’re considering adding a pathway of this style, there are a number of things you will need to consider, including the range of costs for materials and installation, whether to hire a professional and how to reduce the gravel traveling onto the pavers.
Garden paths made of pavers set into gravel are one of the most popular walkway styles due to their natural look, permeability for rainwater and versatility in design. Given the wide range of materials available and opportunities for different combinations, walkways made of pavers and pebbles work with all garden styles. For example, you can pair poured concrete slabs with dark gravel for a contemporary look or set irregular flagstones in warm-toned decomposed granite for a more Mediterranean feel. If you’re considering adding a pathway of this style, there are a number of things you will need to consider, including the range of costs for materials and installation, whether to hire a professional and how to reduce the gravel traveling onto the pavers.
The Benefit of Swales For a long time, buried drainage systems were considered the most effective way to move water in the landscape because of their speed and efficiency. In recent years, however, the best practices have changed, and now landscape architects and engineers favor “daylighting” the movement of water. That means bringing water movement up to the surface to expose it to sunlight — which is good for water quality — and to keep the movement of water visible in the landscape. We have also learned that moving water too quickly can lead to flooding downstream. There’s a balance that has to be achieved between moving stormwater runoff away from the home and across the landscape, and handling it in a way that allows the water to slowly infiltrate. Cities are looking at ways to decrease the runoff going into the sewer systems in response to these lessons learned.
Use Infiltration Basins and Trenches Infiltration areas allow water to collect and slowly seep into the ground. Infiltration basins and trenches help spread water over an area of a yard and are a key part of the next step in the sustainable design mantra: “sink it.” Infiltration areas can be basins, like the one pictured here, or they can be long, narrow trenches filled with stones. An infiltration trench works well in a narrow space where it can capture runoff along the edge of a lawn or driveway. Your garden’s constraints will affect the infiltration type you use. Next: How to sink stormwater with plants, permeable materials and amended soils More on Houzz How to Move Water Through Your Landscape See more guides to saving water at home Find a landscape architect in your area Shop for outdoor products
Move Water With a Swale Swales enhance water quality because, like rain gardens, they have the capacity to simultaneously slow, spread and sink water. They also provide more visual interest than a buried pipe and can anchor a landscape design with a beautiful water-inspired expression. Swales can be designed in many different styles; some only move water, while others move and infiltrate water. Your soil type will affect which type of swale you can use, as clay soils provide poor infiltration while sandy soils can work great for it. Swales can be planted with grasses and perennials or with trees and shrubs. Their base materials can be lined with rocks or covered with wood chips. The most attractive swales blend with the existing conditions and take a cue from what’s naturally occurring in the landscape. This is accomplished by using native plants and local stones, and designing the swale as an integrated component of the landscape. Swales can be used in many settings and are a great feature for yards that don’t have enough room for a rain garden. Learn more about moving water with swales
Cover Bare Ground Bare ground, especially if it’s been eroded or compacted by water, can act like an impervious surface, shedding water runoff very quickly. To slow and spread water and prevent erosion, cover bare ground, such as a dirt path, with wood chips, stones, coarse-grade mulch or ground covers appropriate for your location. Place stones or a woody ground cover on spots where downspout water plummets from the roof to help break up the rushing water on the surface. While you are making changes to your downspout, consider installing a rain barrel and having the barrel overflow into a swale or rain garden.
“We are working on planting that’s more self-sufficient,” Cody says. “For example, I’m the trustee of a nature reserve, where we’re creating some planters outside in full sun. We’re planting Mediterranean herbs — thyme, sage, rosemary and so on — that can survive with a lot less watering.” Cody adds that dry conditions in full shade can be trickier when it comes to planting and, again, refers to the importance of soil conditioning. She flags up the Dryopteris genus of ferns (pictured) as one that thrives in full shade and copes well with little water.
5. Choose the Right Plants “Do plenty of research before letting yourself run free in the plant nursery,” Diggens says. “All those colors are there to attract you!” It is also important to understand native landscapes, Diggens says, “and then emulate the plant communities in such as way as to suit them best. This leads to less watering and maintenance and much longer-lived plantings.” As a general rule, Orchard advises planting silver-leaved plants, such as lavender. “The silver reflects the sunlight, and this feature is often a good sign a plant will be drought-tolerant.” He also points to small and hairy leaves, which retain water, as great qualities in self-sustainable varieties. “A plant with all three — silver, small-leaved and hairy — is a great combination,” he says. How to Find the Right Plants for Your Garden
4. Harvest Rainwater It’s not just about watering plants more sparingly; it’s also about what to water them with. Orchard says everyone should have a rain barrel or water cistern. “Even if you have the tiniest shed or greenhouse, take any opportunity to harvest water you can,” he says. And they don’t have to be unsightly. “You can get water [cisterns] that have planters on top of them,” he says. “These days, they can easily be made into a feature.” Tip: Before you purchase or install a rain barrel, be sure to check local laws. Certain states have issued rainwater-harvesting restrictions.
3. Practice Tough Love If you “spoil” your plants by watering them generously, they’ll come to expect (and need) regular drinks, the experts say. “If you treat them mean from the get-go, they’ll learn to survive better,” Orchard says. He points, as an example, to irrigation systems as a factor that can create thirsty plants. “The plants get “lazy” because they’re not used to holding the water. Whereas if they’ve always had to put out roots to find water, they’ll become more robust for these hotter, dryer summers we’re having,” he says. However, when starting plants off, he says, they may need generous watering to help the roots establish. Cody echoes this point and also says a good soaking now and then is better for creating self-sufficient plants than daily watering. “It helps them to really get as independent as possible, to get their roots down looking for their own source, rather than looking near the surface,” she says. “Making the plants work hard to survive sounds harsh, but if you train them to the hose, they will never deal with a drought,” Diggens agrees. “Obviously, this has to be taken with a bit of common sense — if they’re actually dying, then you’ll need to step in —...
2. Add Mulch Simply having good soil to start with is not enough. Protecting that soil is just as important. “Mulch, mulch, mulch,” Orchard advises. “Whether bark or gravel, it helps slow evaporation of water from the soil.” “The key is to remove bare ground,” Diggens adds, pointing to the use of either an organic or natural mulch. He also suggests strategic planting. “High plant densities with varying rooting depths will enable good soil moisture year-round, as the soil won’t be exposed to the desiccating sun.”
Steps to prep 1. Prepare Your Soil The professionals underline the importance of soil preparation. Organic matter — compost, manure, garden waste or organic fertilizer — is key for a soil that will be as nutrient-rich and self-sufficient as possible. “Round here we have a lot of really dense clays — organic matter and grit, which bakes really hard in the summer,” says designer Julia Cody of Hamilton Cody Garden Design. “There’s also thin river-gravel soil that doesn’t hold moisture, either. It’s really good for Mediterranean plants, but we put down organic matter for them and every soil needs that.” Diggens adds a warning against using weedkillers. “I know it’s easy just to eradicate issues with them, but who knows what you’re actually doing to your soil biology, as well as to birds and mammals?” he says. Find a landscape designer or landscape contractor near you on Houzz
Mulching beds is one of the easiest ways to save water and give garden beds that finished look. Covering the soil with 2 to 3 inches of mulch cuts down on water loss through evaporation and can keep soil in full-sun beds from getting entirely dried out. There are many types of mulch — from organic straw and bark to inorganic pebbles and gravel — that can be used to complement any style of garden. In addition to covering landscaped beds, mulch can help decrease the need for watering garden areas that often need frequent irrigation, such as container gardens and raised beds.
Really like!!! 5. Eichler Front Yard in Walnut Creek, California Idea to steal: Mulch garden beds. This minimalist low-water garden outside an Eichler home in Northern California has a finished, contemporary look. You may notice that despite gaps left between the plants, no soil is exposed. Bark mulch covers the soil between the tufts of grass in the outer curved bed, while a mix of pebbles covers the soil beneath the olive tree and in the bed by the sidewalk.
Just off the back porch, a decomposed granite patio, measuring about 16 by 16 feet, ties together the front and backyard hardscape materials. The homeowners selected the teak furniture set, smoke-free fire pit and colorful throw pillows that complement the home’s exterior paint colors. “It’s wonderful to open up the French doors on a beautiful night and light the fire pit. It really draws us outside,” McMahon says. Patio furniture: Teak Warehouse in Manhattan Beach
Scott continued the planting theme from the front yard by packing borders with drought-tolerant perennials and colorful succulents. The freshly painted blue-green side of the garage acts as a backdrop for the yellow flower spikes of kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos flavidus, zones 10 to 11), with foxtail ferns (Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’, zones 9 to 11) and chartreuse aeonium succulents (Aeonium haworthii ‘Kiwi’, zones 9 to 11) in front.
When choosing plants, Scott selected low-water varieties that would echo and complement the colors of the home for an integrated look. “The plants lead the eye from the home to the garden and back again,” Scott says. The pale green feathery leaves of grevillea growing against the house and the bright chartreuse of foxtail ferns (Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’, USDA zones 9 to 11, find your zone) planted below pick up the lime-gold door and window trim. Narrow-leaved blue chalk sticks (Senecio cylindricus, zones 10 to 11) and silver carpet (Dymondia margaretae, zones 9 to 11) planted between the poured concrete pavers relate to the blue-green exterior paint. Deep purple tree aeonium succulents (Aeonium arboreum, zones 9 to 10) and fiery leucadendron (Leucadendron ‘Jester’, zones 9 to 10) add interest and variety.
Really, really like this. Hum, behind garage along fence line!
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