Landscaping
Birds and insects often prefer drinking from a shallow water source, rather than a deep pool. A shallow bird bath or a plant saucer filled with water would suit as a water source. Whatever water feature you choose, just be sure to keep the water clean and avoid chlorine-based water additives in fountains.
Birds and insects often prefer drinking from a shallow water source, rather than a deep pool. A shallow bird bath or a plant saucer filled with water would suit as a water source. Whatever water feature you choose, just be sure to keep the water clean and avoid chlorine-based water additives in fountains.
5. Plant in Clusters Flowers clustered into clumps are easier for pollinators to spot than individual plants scattered through the yard. In small gardens, aim to plant flowering annuals and perennials in groups of three or five plants. In larger gardens, make clumps about 3 feet in diameter, or arrange plants in even larger swaths. Grouping flowers also makes sense designwise, as clumps and drifts have a soothing visual appeal in the landscape.
4. Embrace Meadow Gardens Working in swaths of meadow-like plantings brings a romantic, carefree feel to the garden. Plus, using a variety of flowering perennials, natives and ornamental grasses that set seeds provides wild creatures with more sources of food, shelter and nest-building materials than traditional ornamental beds.
3. Choose Flowers With Wildlife in Mind Bursting with life, color and variety, this garden is appealing to people and wildlife. A mix of native flowers — like North American native purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, zones 3 to 9) — and pollinator-friendly species of perennials, annuals and ornamental grasses creates a visual feast that acts as a buffet for wild birds, bees, butterflies and other insects. Designwise, the diversity in bloom colors, forms and bloom time create a garden that is interesting and dynamic throughout the season.
Planting a mass of two or three species of flowers in the border also makes a big visual impact and creates a bed that’s easy for pollinators to spot. Other pollinator-friendly plants to consider for a border: Catmint (Nepeta spp.) Lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus, USDA zones 5 to 10; find your zone) Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima, annual in all zones) Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.) Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium, zones 3 to 9) Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii, zones 8 to 11) Lantana (Lantana spp.) Lavender (Lavandula spp.) Bee balm (Monarda spp.) Sage (Salvia spp.)
1. Add Pollinator-Friendly Plants in Contemporary Ways Planting a mass of bee- and butterfly-friendly species alongside an edible garden functions both as a pretty border and draws pollinators close to crops — important for food production. You could plant this border in a looser cottage garden style or in a more modern geometric planting arrangement. The designer of this front yard in Wisconsin, opted for the latter, planting allium, sesleria and coneflower in a contemporary checkerboard pattern that runs the length of the entry path. Pollinators favor the nectar of all, and bees in particular recognize the violet-purple of the blooms.
As you observe your garden’s transition from summer to fall, think about what structure, texture and negative space might be missing. Are the missing elements up high, in the middle or down low? Is one area dominated by grasses or shrubs and so seems a little too simple or drab? What would happen if you mix plant types? Where is fall color absent? When you look out of the window in winter at the bones of the garden, where do you wish it had more places where the eye could rest? Where might a simple pot or sculpture help tie together a plant grouping or bring you deeper into the design? When spring rolls around and you can implement new ideas, you’ll be itching for fall to come around again.
Ongoing Interest Once the fall color show is over, texture and structure don’t end. Not by a long shot. Perennials, grasses and shrubs still have so much to offer — especially with ornamental seed heads. American senna (Senna hebecarpa), coneflowers (Echinacea spp.), bush clover (Lespedeza spp.), Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) and baptisia are some flowering perennials whose seed heads are outstanding design elements in a fall and winter garden. What’s more, once the snow starts flying, you’ll be glad you left the garden up — it’s gorgeous. Of course, lots of wildlife will also thank you, from bees to butterflies to frogs, who all overwinter in hollow stems and under leaves.
Contrasting Texture Grasses provide easy texture and sound, and their colors often can’t be beat. Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans) is a tall species that turns bright oranges, and bluestem goes for scarlets. Of course the seeds heads are often quite ornamental throughout the winter. When you place grasses among perennials and even shrubs, you can create excitement, as the relatively sharp, woody stems mingle with the soft, undulating fingers of grass. It’s exciting to play around with this sort of textural juxtaposition.
Diverse Structure A lot of fall gardening seems to come down to trees — but there is opportunity for more. If the fall garden just comes from trees, we’re severely limiting our landscapes’ potential. Having a diverse structure supercharges autumn, and this means planting with trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses and ground covers. I love my elm, willow and birch for yellow color, my maple for red, my oak for orange. Understory trees like chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) and serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) provide orange and red, respectively. Then there are various species of Viburnum, dogwood (Cornus spp.) and sweetspire (Itea spp.) shrubs for all kinds of color. Sedum and prairie smoke (Geum triflorum) provide lovely hues at ground level. When we think beyond trees, we can create a more multidimensional garden that really knocks our socks off — and not just in October.
What Grows in the Shade Many beautiful plants will thrive in full or partial shade. Take some hints from naturally occurring plant communities in shady environments near you for plants to include in your shade garden. The forest floor: The ground of wooded areas has many types of ground covers, flowering bulbs and even tree species that will seed and grow in the shade. Examples include ferns, Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica, USDA zone 3 to 8; find your zone) and Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis, zones 3 to 7). The understory: The layer beneath the tree canopy in a woodland is called the understory, and this layer is home to woody shrubs and small trees — many of them flowering — that thrive in full to partial shade. Examples include rhododendrons, fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus, zones 3 to 9) and flowering dogwood (Cornus florida, zones 5 to 9). The forest edge: The space between meadow and woodland is a transitional ecosystem with a mix of sun and shade. Plants that thrive in this zone are usually highly adaptable. Understory flowering plants will also grow well at the forest edge, usually with a more impressive flower display. Examples include all of the sumacs (Rh...
Understand Your Site Trees cast different amounts of shade, depending on their species, their age and how they are pruned. For example, linden trees (Tilia spp.) cast a deep, dense shade, while birch trees (Betula spp.) cast only a light shade. Identify if you have deep shade or light shade by observing the shadow casts at different times of day. Note that some trees can be “limbed up” to let in more light to the ground below. Consult a certified arborist to identify which branches should be removed. Deep shade: Your palette will be mostly woodland plants, ferns and other full-shade plants that hail from the forest floor or understory. If your deep shade is from deciduous trees, you still have the option of adding spring color with bulbs that bloom in early spring or late autumn. Light or dappled shade: With just a little more light, you have a larger planting palette available. Dappled shade creates a beautiful effect on the ground, the result of the light that filters through the leaves. Create a place where you can sit and enjoy the dance of light across your shade garden.
Choose Your Colors Wisely Colors have a different visual effect in the shade than in the sun, because of the way light either washes out or intensifies color. The colors that may be washed out in full sun will seem brighter — almost artificially so — in the shade. Plan your groups of plants according to texture and form, or choose a palette of two or three colors, like blue, white and dark green.
Beautify Your Composting Some compost bins can look very unattractive, and they’re often made from plastic. As an alternative, make your own wooden version with straight sides, or even try a circular one crafted from hazel. There are numerous ready-made ones on the market. For the smaller garden, look out for designs that replicate beehives. Compost bins work best sited in an area where there’s light shade, and preferably a fairly constant temperature. Make sure you place them on bare earth to allow for drainage and access to natural soil organisms. Shop for compost bins on Houzz
Avoid Impulse Buys It’s easy to be mesmerized by the choice of plants available at nurseries. Labels such as bee- or insect-friendly may help in deciding on specific plants that are nectar-rich, but it doesn’t always mean they’ll combine well with other plants. It can feel overwhelming trying to make the right choices for year-round interest. It’s well worth doing some research on plant combinations rather than buying on impulse. It will also save you a lot of money in the long term. Make sure you have enough plants for winter interest and structure. For example, you could underplant ‘Little Lady’ English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, zones 5 to 8 ‘Little Lady’) with creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum, zones 4 to 8) for a cool combination. It’s also worth being aware that different bees like different-shaped flowers. For example, long-tongued bees love foxgloves (Digitalis spp.), whereas short-tongued bees like plants such as forget-me-nots (Myosotis spp.). Herbs are particularly loved by bees, and planting thyme, chives, marjoram and borage (make sure you plant the latter in a pot unless you want it all over your garden) will attract these much-needed pollinators to your gar...
Spruce Up Your Shed Planning the location of your shed or storage in a wildlife garden can be tricky, particularly if you’re trying to keep things neat and tidy. If a shed is unsightly, consider hiding it away or updating it with some paint. Or, why not add a frame to its sides for climbing plants? Creating a path to the door, with clay pavers, for example, will be more inviting and help to make the shed an integral part of the design. Planting bee-friendly flowers full of nectar surrounding and along the path to your shed will not only encourage insects and other wildlife but should help to make the approach more attractive. Add small trees, where bird boxes could be located, and place insect hotels nearby to add to the feeling of the shed not being a forgotten element.
Wildflower meadows are simply beautiful and, regardless of the size of the area you have available, you can still sow seeds. Doing some research on what type of wildflowers will suit your soil will help you to work out which are most likely to thrive. A truly native wildflower meadow will do best in a sunny spot where grass grows thinly. Ideally, this would be where there’s impoverished turf, which means a lawn that’s been mown for years with the clippings removed and no fertilizer added. Just check that your lawn doesn’t contain ryegrass, which is not ideal because it’s very vigorous and will compete with wildflowers. If you want to go all out for flowers, a pictorial meadow does not contain grass seeds. This type of meadow comprises an annual mix, which must be sown on bare and well-prepared, weed-free soil in the spring. The fertile, rich soil will produce flowers that bloom from June to October. It will leave bare soil in winter, so you need to be prepared for this.
Squeeze In Some Ground Cover Plants such as clover, buttercups and daisies are so valuable to insects, and the soil is essential for worms, birds and other small creatures. If you can’t have any form of lawn, try creating small areas along hard paving using ground-cover plants. Small strips of grass alongside and between paving stones also create a great look, along with an essential habitat for wildlife.
A wildlife-friendly garden doesn’t have to mean a riot of color. If you prefer a limited palette, you can create a design that’s neat and stylish, yet still attracts insects and other visiting fauna. Try introducing plants that add structure but are also insect-friendly. Bees in particular are attracted to blue and violet colors, due to the fact that they see in ultraviolet, so it’s good to include purple flowers. Hedging is generally a better alternative for wildlife than solid fencing and, by using straight lines and dividing spaces, you can create a stylish, modern feel to a space.
Edible plants. For most plants grown as crops, the more room in a container you can give them, the better. Herbs planted indoors can grow in soil that’s 6 inches deep; outdoors, plant them with a soil depth of 12 inches. Shallow-rooting crops like lettuces, strawberries and radishes can grow in 6 to 12 inches of soil. Medium-size edibles, including peppers, eggplants, squashes, melons and corn, require a soil depth of at least 12 to 18 inches. Give large-scale edible plants, such as tomatoes, potatoes and full-size berry shrubs, at least 18 inches or (better yet) 2 feet of soil. Citrus and other fruit trees need soil that’s 2 to 3 feet deep.
Ornamental plants. How much soil a plant needs, and therefore how big a container it needs, depends on the type of plant and how deep the roots grow. For any container, keep soil quantity proportional to the plant type and size to help balance soil moisture. Small succulents need shallow soil (less than 6 inches). Annuals need a soil depth of 12 inches. Perennials need a soil depth of 12 to 18 inches. Shrubs need a soil depth of 18 inches to 2 feet. Small trees need a soil depth of 2 to 3 feet.
The pillars at each end of the seating wall coordinate with the other stones but have a more rugged look. Koehler used a stone veneer called Mountain Ledge from Eldorado Stone in a color called Charleston. The caps on top of the pillars coordinate with the caps on the wall and fire pit. Koehler planted a kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) behind each pillar. And behind the wall he planted ‘Limelight’ panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’), Endless Summer bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) and ‘Green Mountain’ boxwood (Buxus ‘Green Mountain’).
The designer used a fantastic variety of foliage in terms of shape and color. Plants included in the planter arrangements are white geraniums, dusty miller (Jacobaea maritima, syn. Senecio cineraria), common thyme (Thymus vulgaris), sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas), white vervain (Verbena urticifolia), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and creeping thyme (Thymus praecox). “I love to add herbs into planters,” Koehler says. “They add so much wonderful texture and aromas. And you can dash out and clip some if you need them when you’re cooking.” He recommends adding a landscape fabric in the bottom of pots to keep the dirt in, then adding several inches of gravel to prevent the drainage holes from becoming clogged with dirt. “And this will keep the area around them clean,” he says.
This drawing illustrates that every curve Koehler designed is an arc of a defined circle with a radius. “I find it’s best to use exact circles — circle is classic, whereas other curves can be hit-or-miss. A circle is crisp and looks better to the eye,” he says. “It’s also the easiest way to make sure it will be built exactly to what has been drawn, because it gives the installers a radius measurement to work from.”
8. Play With Levels To maximize space in your yard, try creating different levels. This yard features a few zones, including a sunken fire pit lounge. The other side was built at a slightly higher level and is now an informal lounge spot. This beautiful project was quite complex, but a simpler idea would be to build a raised deck alongside your patio.
7. Include Secret Spots Create secluded zones in your landscape by building pathways and including dense plantings. In this yard, for example, meandering paths lead out from a central brick walkway to hidden areas. A mix of flagstone and pebbles adds character, while plants conceal the space behind, giving the yard a secret garden ambiance.
5. Put In a Place to Pause When zoning your yard, think about where you could add an extra space to relax. Perhaps you could break up some planting beds the way the designer did here. A pathway leading to a water feature at the back of the yard is interrupted by two seating areas along the way. The spots provide a place to rest while adding a touch of character to the design as a whole.
4. Screen for Privacy Give each area in your landscape even more of a separate feel by using screens. The designer of this yard, for example, framed the lounge area with a lattice fence. The design creates a gentle screen, which lets in light while adding privacy. The screen gives the area a calm, secluded feel while being less intrusive than a solid wall.
3. Create Contrast Zone your yard by adding interesting contrasts. Try using different materials or plantings in each area. In this landscape, a bluestone path leads from a concrete driveway to a lounge area on a brick patio. The path crosses through a gravel ring edged in brick before heading into the softer planting area.
2. Build an Outdoor Room Another way to differentiate areas is by building an outdoor room. Not only does a covered area add interest to the yard, but it also can be used in inclement weather. If you’re worried about blocking light to the house, why not consider locating your outdoor room away from it? The owners of this space can step right out to their sunny patio or follow a straight path to the covered area at the back. The outdoor room features an outdoor fireplace and a spot for comfortable sheltered lounging without impeding the view from the house.
1. Add Curve Appeal A sandstone pathway divides this yard into a series of curved lawns before reaching a seating zone. The meandering path allows the owners to take in the flower beds along the way, and the circles help disguise the yard’s somewhat awkward taper toward the back.
IDEAS
The fence idea
Lattice on the walls and 2 x on the roof
Lights on the ceiling
Pergola idea
9. Give Birds and Bees a Water Source If you live in a dry-summer climate, the months between rains can be tough for native birds, insects and other wildlife, particularly in areas where development has taken away their natural water sources. Try setting up a simple fountain, or just fill an empty pot saucer with water, and see what stops by for a drink. Remember to keep the water feature consistently filled and clean, as these small creatures learn to depend on it as a water source.
Conversely, go for all flowers and plant a bed with a single type of an exuberant summer bloomer for a swath of color. It will be a bit more work to maintain than a bed of mixed foliage, but it will look like a celebration of summer. Sunflowers — easy to grow and as cheery as they come — are always a good bet.
7. Jazz up Your Planting Beds Plants with interesting foliage often need less tending than those planted primarily for their flowers — you’ll be able to skip deadheading, at least. To make a primarily foliage-based bed just as stunning as one with flowers, choose foliage plants with high color and texture contrast, and plant them close together. For example, this bed in Alameda, California, relies on the contrast of the strappy, dark purple leaves of New Zealand flax (Phormium sp.) with lime-colored grass and upright, architectural agave (Agave sp.) for both color and textural interest.
5. Install an Outdoor Shower Making that dream of a rinse under the sky a reality can be easier than it looks. If you have a water hookup close by — the outdoor wall of an indoor bathroom is a great bet — all it takes to install an outdoor shower is mounting basic plumbing and shower fixtures, and creating a path away from the home for water drainage. Perhaps this is the summer you make it happen.
Switch up Your Morning Routine Even if you have only five minutes, bring your cup of coffee and slice of toast outside to enjoy in the backyard. Perhaps you want to take this time to practice mindfulness, or you may just want to sit back, relax and watch the birds flit among the garden beds. If you’re off to work, you may notice that you feel more calm and centered by starting your day in nature.
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) Nasturtium is a great plant, not only because the yellow, orange and red blooms are pretty, but because they are also edible. They taste peppery and are a nice way to decorate salads and soups. I love to put nasturtium in herb and edible gardens for color. Because the seeds have a tough outer coat, you will need to take an extra step of soaking them for 24 hours prior to planting. Once planted, the seeds will germinate in about a week. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Medium moisture; prefers well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 1 to 3 feet wide and as tall as 10 feet
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) In addition to flowers, several herbs can be grown easily from seed. If you like to cook, you will want to grow these herbs from seed so that you’ll have plenty on hand to add to your culinary creations. This plant leads a double life: its seed is considered coriander, while its leaves are called cilantro. In either iteration, it’s a tasty and useful herb. Once planted, the herb grows quickly and will bolt, or go to seed, sooner than most. To keep a constant crop, you can plant the seeds every two weeks or so. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Medium moisture; prefers well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: Up to 2 feet tall and 1½ feet wide
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Basil comes in a wide range of varieties, but I love to use the more ornamental types (such as ‘Purple Ruffle’, shown here on the right) in containers. Like cilantro, basil is quick to grow. To keep it from bolting, trim flower stems before they bloom. You can also continuously plant the seeds for a constant harvest. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Medium to moist, prefers well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 1½ to 2 feet tall and wide
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) Parsley isn’t just garnish for your plate. It’s a mild-tasting herb that works well in many dishes. In addition to its usefulness, it also looks lovely in pots mixed with either herbs or flowers. Because it prefers moist soil, it makes a good companion for nasturtium and alyssum. It comes in either curly or flat-leaf varieties and grows up to 1 foot, but can be kept compact through regular trimming and harvesting. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Medium to moist, well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: 9 to 12 inches tall and wide
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) Sweet alyssum is a mainstay of container gardening due to its small, clumping stature and its constant and fragrant blooms. It typically comes in white or purple, with some mixture in between. While it can tolerate high summer temperatures, it prefers light afternoon shade and moist soils, so be sure to pair it with flowers with similar needs. Alyssum seeds are quick to germinate and can be started indoors several weeks prior to the last frost. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Medium moisture; prefers well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: 3 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora) I love moss rose for its ability to take a lot of direct sun and dry conditions. Moss rose is a succulent with small cup-shaped flowers and needle-like foliage. It grows only to about 6 inches tall, so it works great at the edges of containers. Moss rose comes in a wide variety of colors and looks lovely spilling over the sides of a pot, as in this photo. Because it cannot take freezing temps, it’s best to plant after the average last frost. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Dry to medium moisture; prefers well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 3 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Zinnia (Zinnia angustifolia) Zinnias are perfect for container gardens, as they bloom nonstop until frost. They are also very sun and drought tolerant. Their mounding growth habit makes them a perfect filler for containers. With a variety of colors to choose from, they will be useful in many of your designs. Zinnias are simple to start from seeds. Put the seedlings out after the last frost date or when overnight temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, or 15.6 degrees Celsius. Where it will grow: Grow everywhere an annual Water requirement: Dry to medium moisture; prefer well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 9 to 12 inches tall and wide
. Put Garden Waste to Use Anything you clip or rake from your garden can be put right back to use in the soil if given time to break down, save for weeds that have set seeds or any diseased plants. Toss those plants into the green waste bin. To create a productive compost bin, layer carbon-rich materials with nitrogen-rich materials, including kitchen scraps. Keep the heap well aerated by turning regularly. Afterward, you can spread well-decomposed compost on top of garden beds to return nutrients to the soil. No room for a compost pile? Try a vermiculture with a worm box. Worms can break down kitchen scraps and finer garden trimmings and leave nutrient-rich droppings that can be added back to the garden.
9. Plant for Pollinators Pollinators play an important part in boosting the productivity of a garden by ensuring fruit trees, berries and veggies such as tomatoes, squash and cucumber set fruits. By planting nectar- and pollen-rich flowering plants, particularly varieties native to your area, you can help support essential pollinator populations. Before: Take a look at the dramatic transformation of this North Shores, Michigan, garden border. It started as a food desert for pollinators, but in the span of one season it was completely transformed into a pollinator paradise.
8. Grow a Cutting Garden Productive gardens aren’t limited to those that produce food. Try growing your own flowers for bouquets and you’ll also be supporting pollinators passing through your flower garden while you’re at it. Look for plants that have long stems, last in a vase and bloom for a long time. A few to try this spring and summer: peony, dahlia, zinnia, cosmos, sunflower, scabiosa, feverfew and alstroemeria.
To boost your soil health in garden beds this season, work 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the soil before planting. During the growing season, lay off synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, which can be harmful to beneficial soil organisms. Try no-dig gardening. If compacted soil or persistent weeds have been an issue, consider a no-dig method of improving soil structure and suppressing weeds. Layer carbon-rich materials, such as small twigs and dried leaves, and nitrogen-rich materials, such as plant and grass clippings, between sheets of cardboard. Allow the whole mixture to rest for 4 to 6 months, during which time worms and soil microbes will help break down the layers, turning them into loose, nutrient-rich topsoil.
The key to any productive garden starts with the soil. Plants grown in healthy, fertile soil that is rich in nutrients and able to retain water will be far more productive during their lifecycle and need less care. For gardening in containers, always start with fresh potting soil. Potting soil often has ingredients such as perlite (those little white specs) or vermiculite (the shiny specs), which both help regulate soil moisture. You can mix the potting soil with organic compost or add other amendments before planting to boost soil nutrient levels.
12. Leave an Area Wild Resist the urge to landscape all areas of your yard, particularly if you are lucky enough to live on a larger lot. Leaving margins wild helps provide wildlife corridors for animals to move through urban and suburban spaces with places to rest, feed and find shelter. This Northern California garden designed by Bluewagon Landscape and Design features pools, lawns and more manicured garden areas, but a large portion of the property that includes native oak trees and a creek was left natural. This not only cuts down on maintenance and provides habitat, it also makes for a gorgeous landscape that feels rooted in its natural site.
11. Turn a Lawn Into a Naturalistic Meadow If you’re considering eliminating a traditional lawn or reducing its size, look to this naturalistic meadow designed by Ari Tenenbaum of Revolution Landscape for inspiration. The design incorporates many of the ideas we’ve already discussed — using native plants, including pollinator-friendly plants, keeping rainwater on site and reducing the need for supplemental water and maintenance — for a beautiful backyard design. Tenenbaum regraded the yard, which had been a neglected traditional lawn, and installed boulders and rocky basins to catch rainwater from the client’s roof. Next he planted sanddune sedge (Carex pansa) with a mix of flowering lavender, verbena and sweet alyssum, which benefit birds, bees and butterflies. “I would estimate this meadow will use about 30 to 50 percent less water annually, as compared to a traditional lawn,” he says — not to mention it will cut down on maintenance.
10. Put Green Waste to Good Use Instead of tossing grass and garden clippings in the wastebin, set up a home compost station. “Compost provides critical organic matter for soil texture and food for soil organisms,” says landscape designer Patricia Larenas of Urban Artichoke Fine Gardening. After all, healthy soil leads to healthy gardens. If you’re new to composting, starting with an organized system can help you get the hang of it and prevent a pile from getting out of hand. For her Bay Area clients in this project, Larenas installed a standard three-compartment bin system (each with a 3-foot-by-3-foot interior) to turn over the compost as it breaks down. The fully broken-down compost is used to enrich nearby edible garden beds without the use of synthetic supplements, returning vital nutrients to the soil after a growing season.
9. Eliminate Pesticide Use Boost the health of your garden — and surrounding environment — by vowing to ditch pesticides. “The use of pesticides in the landscape affects not only damaging insects but beneficial insects as well, such as bees and butterflies that we rely on for pollination,” says landscape consultant Noelle Johnson. Instead of spraying plants with chemicals, Johnson recommends a more hands-off approach to pest control. “The majority of plants can easily handle some damage from insects without seriously affecting the health of the plant,” she says. “When you first spot damaging insects in your garden, usually within a couple of weeks beneficial insects will show that will eat those bad bugs.” For example, when aphids appear, lacewings and ladybugs will soon follow and feast upon them.
8. Use Permeable Hardscape Surfaces Choosing hardscape materials that allow for water to run through them is another way to keep rainwater on site. In this Melbourne garden, the designers at Bayon Gardens used permeable paving for pathways and patios. Here, gravel covers a walkway leading to a fire feature, acting as a filter for rainwater to percolate back into the soil. Wood pieces guide the path and provide a place to put your feet.
Rain gardens do more than reduce stormwater runoff. “Amended soils of a rain garden help to create a living sponge that absorbs and holds water longer for plants,” Whitworth says, which leads to healthier soils and gardens that need less supplemental water. Plus, rain gardens planted with native and pollinator-friendly plants can become habitat areas for birds, insects, frogs, turtles and other wildlife.
7. Plant a Rain Garden Rain gardens channel stormwater into a sunken, planted garden area, where it can slowly soak into the ground, as opposed to stormwater drains that send the water off-site. Adding a rain garden leads to a cascade of environmental benefits. “Rain gardens help purify surface water and recharge groundwater, which is important for salmon-safe gardening in the Pacific Northwest,” says landscape designer Amy Whitworth. The gravel and soil of a rain garden act as a filter, helping to purify runoff of harmful pollutants, such as hydrocarbons, heavy metals, fertilizer, pesticides and more. “Cleaner water leads to healthier rivers and watersheds, which is better for all wildlife and people,” the designer adds. Whitworth, of Plan-it Earth Design, created this rain garden in Portland, Oregon, between two houses, directing roof runoff from both into a dry streambed. She uses plants that don't mind wet soil.
6. Harvest Rainwater Capturing rainwater can help save water on a small scale. A rain barrel connected to a home’s downspouts allows one to capture the runoff from the roof for use in drier months. In this garden in San Luis Obispo, California, designed by Gabriel Frank, an attractive terra-cotta-colored rain barrel with a handy hose attachment allows for easy water dispensing to use on garden beds in the dry season. Tip: Before you purchase or install a rain barrel, be sure to check local laws. Certain states have issued rainwater-harvesting restrictions.
5. Add Pollinator-Friendly Plants Even if you don’t have an entirely native plant garden, include some plants that are friendly to birds, butterflies and bees for a planting scheme that supports local wildlife. When planting pollinator-friendly blooms, mass them in clumps or bands so they can be spotted from a distance.
3. Include a Water Source Water features of any kind — fountains, birdbaths or backyard ponds — can be places that attract wild creatures for bathing and drinking. This is particularly important in cities and suburbs, where natural water sources have been all but eliminated. The designers of this London backyard went a step further to welcome wildlife by adding a naturalistic pond with water-loving plants along the edges and a safety dock for birds to land or turtles to sun themselves in the center.
2. Use Local and Reusable Materials If you’re investing in new building and hardscape materials for a landscape project, try to choose long-lasting ones that have been sustainably obtained and locally sourced. Locally sourced materials will have had to travel shorter distances than exotic ones, reducing the material’s carbon footprint and potentially reducing its cost to the homeowner. Houston-based landscape architect Falon Mihalic advocates using local stone in landscape projects. “Like locally sourced wood, stone is a sustainable building choice for the landscape when it is purchased from a nearby source,” Mihalic says. “Local stone lasts a lifetime. You will not have to send it to a landfill ever, because it can be reused again and again,” the designer adds.
steps in the yard
Pavers
9. Work in Good-Looking Natives Not all native plants are created equal, in terms of either supporting wildlife or looking good in average-sized gardens. Choose plants that offer beautiful blooms, attractive seeds, foliage or plant form. Your best bet would be to visit a native plant nursery in your area for garden-friendly varieties. To get started, here are a few to choose from: Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii) Flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) Texas ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) Firecracker penstemon (Penstemon eatonii) Wild lilac (Ceanothus spp.) Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) Bluebell bellflower (Campanula rotundifolia)
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